Backpackers Guide to Persia
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Backpackers Guide to Persia

2023: I embarked on an adventure to the Middle East, a region I knew little about but was eager to explore. My goal was to experience the craziest possible adventure, and Iran was one of the perfect places to go.
For 16 days, I journeyed from the southern island of Hormuz to the northern border with Azerbaijan (which was closed, grr!). Along the way, stayed in homes with locals I met in Tehran, walked Persepolis in near solitude and in Esfahan I even appeared on German national TV, (Check out the video here): https://www.zdf.de/politik/auslandsjournal/iran-isolation-tourismus-kulturerbe-proteste-100.html
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German National Broadcaster ZDF gathering footage of myself and Jeff Barnes visiting the Shah Mosque in Esfahan
 
Everything below relates to my experience as of 2023, thing’s will change over time. To get current information, checkout the Smart Traveller guide here: https://www.smartraveller.gov.au/destinations/middle-east/iran
 
 

Modern Day Iran


You've probably seen on TV that Iran has a reputation for being a regional destabilising power, known to regularly detain tourists and violently crack down on protests. These are all valid concerns, but if you can stomach the fear and overcome these challenges, you'll get to formulate your own opinion and make up your own mind about the realities on the ground.
 
Spoilers: It's not what you think. You'd be blown away by just how left-leaning and progressive the locals are, how safe it feels, just how resilient their economy is, and how the whole country seems to be on the verge of yet another revolution.
 
Many empires have come and gone over it’s over 7000 year known history, from the first entirely middle-eastern Achaemid Empire (550BC) to the Islamic Golden Age (8-13th century) and the 1979 Iranian Revolution.
The country has a fascinating take on Islam by being predominantly Shia with an intense national focus on hospitality and kindness. The architecture is distinct due to the Qajar dynasty and the food is a brilliant mix of eastern and western from the days of the silk road.
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Home-made Halva, made using semolina flour, sugar and rosewater
 
 

Challenges Visiting Iran


Iran is a heavily sanctioned country, meaning a lot of services and niceties you take for granted are not common or so simple here, these are some of the common difficulties and how to overcome them:

Money

  • You cannot use ATMs or withdraw cash from any banks
  • You’ll need to bring a large amount of cash foreign currency (ideally USD) with you when arriving, this is certainly scary so don’t keep it all in your wallet!
  • The official conversion rate is a terrible deal compared to the blackmarket rate, you can find todays rate here: https://www.bonbast.com/
    • I’d recommend asking your hotel/hostel to help you find someone willing to trade for your foreign currency. It is technically a crime but FX is the most valuable possession there due to it’s resilience against inflation.
  • If somehow you run out of cash, you can get a withdrawal at the Heritage Hostel in Tehran. However, they charge a minimum 10% fee on top of any conversion fees AND you’ll get the much worse official government currency rate: https://maps.app.goo.gl/2UzGuNZPqiXJ7BnU7
    • This works because they use a shell company payment processor in Dubai as the middle man
  • Don’t tell you’re bank you’re going to Iran and definitely don’t note that the cash you may be withdrawing for your trip is for Iran. It’s illegal for a western bank to release money to you if they know it’s going to this sanctioned country and they will shut your account down.
 

Internet

  • There is internet but not only does the government crack down and block almost all sites but so too do foreign companies like Google and Facebook who block access if you’re detected as being in Iran.
  • One VPN (Virtual Private Network) is not enough, during my 16 days I had to use 8 different ones at various times as one that works for a few days will eventually break. It’s pointless that I recommend any VPN here so I only suggest downloading the app ‘SHAREIT’ on your phone which will allow Iranian locals to share VPN .apk files with you over bluetooth so you can install whichever VPN app is working at the time. Hostels and Hotels usually offer this service for free. Note: Download SHAREIT ahead of time as the App and Play stores are blocked.
  • Almost no Iranians have iPhones because iPhone sales are banned. I’d recommend buying a cheap android before your trip to Iran or even while there.
  • If you can’t install SHAREIT you can share files between phones by plugging them into one another.
  • Even with a VPN, the speeds are abysmal. Expect to irregularly message friends and family back home but no more. Maps works but barely and frequently drops out, download offline maps ahead of time.
  • Ensure you’ve downloaded all your personal documents and backups ahead of time as well.
 

Embassies / Consulates

  • Many countries do not have any government services, such as the USA. If something goes wrong (ie you lose your passport) it could be a huge hassle and you’d need to go to another embassy for help (Like Switzerlands or Australia’s).
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The old US embassy abandoned and occupied, converted into an anti-USA propaganda museum
 

Insurance

  • Most insurers will not cover a trip to Iran, this includes ‘global insurance’.
 

People/Places

  • Sadly, American, Canadian and UK citizens will need to be escorted at all times in a tour. This is likely as ‘punishment’ by the Irani government for these countries pushing for sanctions. Other nationalities however, are free to explore solo.
  • Swedish citizens are warned not to visit currently as theirs ongoing tension regarding the Qu-ran burnings that happened in Stockholm (As of November 2023).
  • Israeli citizens should NEVER visit Iran. You will be arrested and used for political leverage.
 

Cultural Rules

  • You should cover your shoulders and knees at all times, not just mosques.
  • Alcohol is officially illegal so you can’t buy it in stores or find it at bars, however it is plenty available at hostels, underground clubs and in peoples homes. The most common varieties are moon shine, home made wine and mead.
 

Protests

  • Happen frequently and from all sides.
  • Those against the government tend to be cracked down on harshly, avoid public gatherings of this nature and stay indoors.
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A protest FOR restoring the mandatory hijab happening outside my hostel in Tehran
 
 

Arriving


Visa

You can get a visa by using a company like these. Unfortunetely the maximum time you can get is decided by Iran and seems to relate to the relationship between your country and theirs
If you book a tour then that will include an invitation and entry visa
 

Tehran Airport

You'll likely have to enter at the airport as it has all the unique services required to process your on-arrival visa. At the special ‘foreigners’ office you’ll have a chance to pay for your visa using foreign currency, it isn't cheap so I’d suggest you bring and set aside $200usd just for this, depending on your citizenship
 
Once through immigration (Don’t worry, you won’t get a stamp) you can convert a small amount of USD and get local cash at the undesirable government rate.
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$20usd worth of local currency at a bad FX conversion rate
 
This should be enough to get a sim card (Also at the airport) for about $3-6 giving you a 1 month SIM with unlimited data and also a taxi wherever you intend to go next.
 

Hotels/Hostels

Once you arrive at your hotel or hostel, ask them if they know someone who can help you get local currency at the blackmarket rate.
Note: Hotels are legally required to hold onto your passport for the duration of your stay, so keep a physical copy of your passport on you. Most hotels will probably make a copy for you.
 
 

Commuting


Bus
Busses are a great and ultra-affordable way to travel and are usually very convenient and a great way to meet locals. However, booking one is a challenge as you can’t do it online as a foreigner.
The easiest way is to ask a hotel, hostel or local to do it for you and pay them. Alternatively you can go to a bus station (They’re huge in Iran, as big as airports) and try to do it in person, but this is hard because there are dozens of private businesses offering the service
 
Train
Book tickets at the station where you can also find the schedule.
Rural trains are very old and uncomfortable and usually not much faster or cheaper than busses, however they are a unique experience. Metro trains in Tehran however are fantastic and very modern, owing to it being directly imported from China.
 
Taxi (Careem)
The app Careem is a fantastic way to get around even long distances. It costs approximately $6-10usd to travel 5+ hours by taxi between cities and the drivers are usually delighted to do so.
Tip: Due to the hyper-inflation in Iran, many taxi drivers have a second (main) job. During my time I met a physics professor, civil engineer and lawyer.
 
 

Day to Day


Locals

Due to the sanctions, very few Iranians have met foreigners or travelled themselves so there is very little pre-conceived notions about what or who you are. It’s very common that locals will approach and ask about you, what you’re doing and where you’re going. Many just want to practice their english and get a photo with you.
However, it also extremely common that i’d be invited to stay at folks houses and for a meal with zero strings attached or expectation. If you do this please don’t take advantage of the hospitality, do something kind, bring food or snacks, offer cash and help them around the house if you can (But don’t offend if they say no)
 

Costs

Estimate to spend about $5usd per day on food and transport, $3-5usd per night for a hotel or $10usd for a hostel (yes hostels are costlier).
 
 

Food

The most common food is kebab, which is minced meat of some sort with rice and spices
There are also many sweets which you'll discover on your own, for those that like subtle-sweets that don’t numb the tastebuds, you'll be pleased
 
 

Shisha

Culturally it is common to visit a ‘shisha’ (or hooker) bar and smoke flavoured nicotine. While its enjoyable it’s important to note that one shisha contains as much tobacco as 150-300 cigarettes
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Double apple-flavoured shisha, the strongest you can get
 
 

Destinations


Tehran

  • US Den of Espionage
  • Qasr Garden Museum
  • Tabiat Bridge
  • Museum of the Holy Defense
  • Azadi Tower
  • Park Shahr
  • Golestan Palace
  • Milad Tower
  • Reza Great Bazaar
  • Tehran Grand Bazaar
 

Shiraz

  • Nasir al-Mulk Mosque
  • Vakil Bazaar
  • Joulep Bistro
  • Arg of Karim Khan
  • Ali Ibn Hamza Mausoleum
  • Tomb of Hafez
  • Apadana Palace
  • Percepolis
    • Tomb of Cyrus the Great
    • Pasargadae World Heritage Site
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Drinking sunflower juice at the Arg of Karim Khan in Shiraz
 

Ardabil

  • Ardabil Bazaar
  • Shorabil
  • Sareyn
  • Hot springs
 

Tabriz

  • Jolfa
  • Tabriz Bazaar
  • Blue Mosque
  • El-Goli Pavilion
  • Azerbaijan Museum
  • Kandovan Village
 

Esfahan

  • Vank Cathedral - Armenian Apostolic Church
  • Shah Mosque
  • Aali Qapu Palace
  • Naqsh-e Jahan Square
  • Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque
  • Kashan
  • Fin garden
  • Borujerdi House
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Standing on the riverbed of the bone dry Zayandeh Rud in Esfahan
 

Hormuz

  • Salt Caves
  • Rainbow Mountains
  • Valley of Statues
  • Portuguese Fort
  • Worlds largest soil carpet
 

Rasht

  • Bandar Anzali
  • Fuman
  • Moein
  • Rudkhan Castle
  • Masuleh
  • Khareh Boo Waterfall
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The beautiful mountainside village of Masuleh near Rasht
 
 

Fun Facts


  • 99% of tourists come from China and Russia who seek affordable trips to an enigmatic destination
  • Due to significantly damaging ecological decisions over the past 5 decades, Iran has exhausted almost all natural rivers and is rapidly destroying its underground water table leading to widespread sinkholes and drought.
  • Despite the government blocking almost all VPNs, the ‘presidents’ wife owns several VPN companies and is known to profit greatly by selling their services
  • Fuel costs approx. $0.06usd per litre (Yes, 6 cents per litre!) meaning the cost to fill a tank is about $2usd
  • When sanctions hit in the 1980’s all foreign car companies were required to pull out of Iran. The government simply took over the empty factories and have continued to produce the same vehicles from then ever since. Even though the badge is the same, these cars have nothing to do with the original companies. Brand new Peugeot 405s roll off the assembly line even today and you can see that in the manufacture years in it’s wikipedia page here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peugeot_405
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Got more questions or ideas for this page? Feel free to reach out: franklin.v.moon@gmail.com
 

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